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Thread: Rear differential Rebuild instructions

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    Default Rear differential Rebuild instructions

    A. GENERAL
    The differential assemblies, of all units
    utilizing them, are grouped together in this section.
    B. MODEL 100 DIFFERENTIAL
    1. DISASSEMBLY
    a. Clean outside of differential. Remove all
    keys, pins, etc. Remove all burrs from
    keyways and holes. Use a stone on
    hardened shafts.
    b. Remove 4 locknuts, bolts and sprocket.
    Separate differential carrier housings.
    c. Remove drive pin, pinion gears and thrust
    washers as a unit.
    a. Drive out roll pin that secures drive pin
    with suitable driver.
    d. Remove snap ring, bevel gear and thrust
    washer. Slide axle from differential carrier
    housing.
    NOTE:
    Bushings are replaceable in the
    differential carrier housing. To replace
    bushing, use bushing tool 670204.

    2. ASSEMBLY
    a. Slip axle in differential housing carrier. Place
    thrust washer and bevel gear on axle and
    secure with snap ring. Make sure flat side
    of snap ring is away from gear.
    b. Place pinion gears and thrust washers on
    drive pin and insert assembly into either
    differential housing carrier.
    c. Use 3 oz. Bentonite grease as lubricant.
    d. Assemble differential carrier housings and
    sprocket with 4 bolts and locknuts.
    NOTE:
    No oil seals or gaskets are required
    in this unit. A few units use a gasket between
    the two housings.
    If no gasket is present, seal the housing
    with Loctite 598 part number 788093 using
    a 1/8" bead.



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    Default How often do mainstreet differentials need rebuilding?

    Just curious, will a heavily ridden mainstreet need a differential rebuild once a year? More / less often? What symptoms should you look out for? What will cause it's differential to need to be rebuilt more often?

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    Default Not really that often

    The four things I have seen are:
    1. The clips come off inside from over tightening the axle bolts or not installed correctly.
    2. The brass bushings wear out from bearing misalignment. (lots of grinding sounds)
    3. The bolts holding the castings together shear (aircraft grade bolts would be better if you can find them) because the are not checked and/or tightened monthly. (major problem if this happens)
    4. One of the gears loses some teeth from an internal flaw in the gears or age. (Very rare, but it has happened to me)

    Note: If your rear differential has a problem inside with the gears or the case seperates when the bolts shear, you will not have any back brake at all. (Again it happened to me on more than one bike) Thats why there should always be a good working front brake.

    It is best to take a good look at it once a year. Make sure you tighten the bolts holding the sprocket and brake disk on about every two weeks if you ride alot.

    These are things we cover in our maintenance class.
    Last edited by Greg; 19-05-2008 at 07:09. Reason: added more

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    Default Thanks for the info.

    Thanks greg. This info will help a lot of folks.

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    Default

    If MS would have a disc rotors on the hubs not on the differential, then the diff would last for 5 years at least. If the cogs in the diff will break you may not even be able to stop the pedicab and that's quite dangerous. I think the braking solution in the MS should be seriously redesigned because it's dangerous and cause a need of more often maintenance

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    Default design imperative

    Quote Originally Posted by Yendrek3 View Post
    If MS would have a disc rotors on the hubs not on the differential, then the diff would last for 5 years at least.
    I would tend to agree. I am guessing that the design imperative is to only need one disk brake. As such this saves on cost over other pedicabs. I am guessing though they need to overbuild the heck out of their differential to get a decent service life. This will of course add weight.

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Cameron View Post
    I would tend to agree. I am guessing that the design imperative is to only need one disk brake. As such this saves on cost over other pedicabs. I am guessing though they need to overbuild the heck out of their differential to get a decent service life. This will of course add weight.
    The differentials were designed for better transsmission not for braking as MS thinks. From my point of view it's a very bad solution. Obviously it's got pros and cons, It is cheaper to use the one industrial disc brake rather than professional twin system with low drag calipers. All you get after that it's a cheap pedicab but MS it's definetley not the best pedicab on the market.

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    Default Keep it simple?

    Most people do have a pedicab they really like - I must admit though I love all of them - from the heavy wheeled chines copy to that super modern design we are working on with Ant D.

    Having said that, most people really want a 'simple' cheap pedicab. What most don't get is - 'you get what you pay for', great pedicabs cost money and most people don't want a Lexus but just a Ford to do the taxi stuff. The other side of the coin is that the extra money it costs to make a pedicab is the history, quality of parts, design up dates, warranty & yes - finally the quality of handling. The cheaper the pedicab the worse it is to ride ......?!

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Cameron View Post
    Just curious, will a heavily ridden mainstreet need a differential rebuild once a year? More / less often? What symptoms should you look out for? What will cause it's differential to need to be rebuilt more often?
    I've not had differential failure problems here. after about ten years, the brass or bronze bushings need to be replaced on my old style hubs (the ones using stub shafts)

    I don't let my drivers tighten the axle nuts after finding out that a leading cause of problems is having the axle nuts be over torqued.

    as far as bearing misalignment goes, I think the only way that can happen is if the frame is warped. Because most of my fleet consists of frames built before MS made the rear reinforcement piece a standard item, I've had to put them on myself. Its not hard.

    an easy way to check for frame straightness is to put a piece of thick flat stock along the rear cross member from side to side.

    I have also controlled frame flex by adding a piece of steel bar, either flat stock or square stock, which connects the two body hangers to the center body hanger and also is welded to the two side tubes.

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    Default

    I have also controlled frame flex by adding a piece of steel bar, either flat stock or square stock, which connects the two body hangers to the center body hanger and also is welded to the two side tubes.
    Billy, can you post a picture of this modification?

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